Method of making slip-lasted shoes with a counter cover element



J. MELTZER METHOD OF MAKIN Jan. 3, 1950 2,493,497

G SLIP-LASTED SHOES WITH A COUNTER COVER ELEMENT 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Aug. 10, 1948 INVENTOR.

Jan. 3, 1950 v J. MELTZER 2,493,497

METHOD UF MAKING SLIP-LASTED SHOES WITH A COUNTER COVER ELEMENT Filed Aug. 10, 1948 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. (146K MEL fl 5% esasied Jan. a, 1950 METHOD OF MAKING SLIP-LASTED SHOES WITH A COUNTER COVER ELEMENT Jack Meltzer, New'York, N. Y. Application August 10, 1948, Serial No. 43,420

1 Claims. (c1. 12-142) My present invention relates generally to shoes,

and has particular reference to shoes of the socalled slip lasted type, and to certain procedural steps involved in making such shoes.

A general object of the invention is to provide a construction in which the advantages of a preformed flanged heel counter are attained in a shoe having a full length sock lining which is stitched to ithe upper throughout the full extent of the uppers lower edge. 1

As is known, a stitched-in sock lining is highly desirable because it is not susceptible to displacement and is devoid of edges which may curl and thereby cause discomfort or which impair the attractiveness of shoes having openings at the toe or elsewhere. A pre-formed flanged heel counter is desirable because of its ability to lend staunchness and form-retaining qualities to the shoe, and to impart a stylish and attractive appearance to it.-

A more particular object of the invention is to provide a method by which the dual benefits of a full length stitched-in sock lining and of a preformed flanged heel counter may be simultaneously achieved in a shoe in which the upper is not necessarily provided with a lining, and in which the upper may, if desired, consist of separate and spaced vamp and quarter elements.

Another object is to produce these desirable results in a simplified manner and by a sequence of procedures which are relatively easy to perform; expeditious, and inexpensive. The method is capable of performance by relatively unskilled hands, and the finished article of footwear has a neat-appearing rigidifled heel region and a soft and comfortable interior. The invention is suitable for a variety of shoes, slippers, sandals and similar items intended for either street wear or indoor use, and lends itself readily to variations in style and to the employment of various ornamental materials.

Two ways of achieving these general objects and advantages, and such other objects and advantages as may hereinafter appear or be pointed out, are illustratively exemplified in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an illustrative article of footwear which may be produced by means of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is an elevational view, partly broken away, of a preliminary assembly of parts involved in making the shoe of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view showing another and separate preliminary assembly of partsy Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2 showing the two preliminary assemblies in partially joined relation;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 illustrating a subsequent stage in the process;

Figs. 6 and 7 are cross-sectional views, re-

2 spectively, taken substantially along the lines 66 and l-l of Fig. 5; 1

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of a pre-i'ormed flanged heel counter;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 7, showing the parts in the relationships they assume after the heel counter is in position, and the sole structure of the shoe has been completed;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view showing another illustrative type of footwear which may be con structed in accordance with the present method;

Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are views showing successive stages in the process of making the shoe of Fig. 10;

Fig. 14 is a cross-sectional view taken substantially along the line il l4 of Fig. 11; and

Figs. 15, 16 and 17 are cross-sectional views taken respectively along the lines ii-IS, l6--l8 and l1i1 of Fig. 13.

In the shoe shown by way of illustration in Fig. l, the upper 20 has a lower edge which is continuous throughout the entire periphery of the shoe. This upper may be preliminarily formed in any desired fashion, by procedures which are well-known per se, and of any desired material. The first stage in carrying out the present procedure lies in stitching a sock lining 2! along its margin, as by stitches 22, to the lower edge of the upper 20 (Fig. 2).

As a separate preliminary procedure, the assembly of Fig. 3 is produced. The element 23 is a counter-covering element which is ultimately to be secured to the upper 20 in the heel region of the shoe. The element 23 may therefore be made of any suitable or desired ornamental material, and it may have any appropriate shape. It is in any case provided with a bottom edge 24, side edges 25, and a top edge 26. .The strip 21 is a platform cover or wrapper. It is secured, wrong side out, to the lower edge 24 of the element 23, by stitches 28. It is to be noted, however, that the stitches 28 terminate at the points 28 and 30 which lie short of the side edges 25 of the element 23. It is also to be noted that the strip 21 is longer than the element 23, so that its opposite ends extend forwardly beyond it. In the embodiment chosen for illustration in Fig. 3, the strip 21 is long enough to extend ultimately around the entire periphery of the shoe, but thisis not absoliutely essential as will be pointed out hereinaf er.

The preliminary assemblies shown, respectively, in Figs. 2 and 3, are then joined together as indicated in Fig. 4. The element 23 is laid over the heel region of the upper 20, and it'is stitched down to the upper by means of stitches 3i. It is to be noted that these stitches extend only along the side and top edges 25 and 26 of the element 23, thus leaving the lower edge 24 free of connection to the lower edge of the upper 20, Dur- V in the usual way,

. ingthe application of the stitches 3|,theprojectpreferably in the shank region as indicated at 32.

The securement of the strip 21 to the upper 23 is by means of stitches 33 which extend through the upper and through the margin'of the sock lining (see Fig. 6). The stitches 33 may extend to the points 29 and 39, respectively (Fig. 3), and thereby stitch down to the element 23 thou parts of the strip 21 which were left detached by terminating the stitches 28 short of the edges 26.

The next step lies in the positioning of a preformed flanged counter 34 (Fig. 8) into the space or pocket beneath the element 23. This space is most clearly indicated in Fig. 7, and is designated in that Figure by the reference numeral". The counter 34 is of well-known type, of suitable stifl material, and of a shape which flts snugly into the pocket 35. j It is at this stage that the entire assembly is applied to a last, and the shoe structure is then completed as indicated in Fig. 9. A platform pad or sole 36 is positioned over the sock lining 2| and the flange 31 of the counter 34, the platform cover 21 is then pulled around and over the pad 36 to enclose the periphery of the platform and an outer sole 38 is ultimately applied.- Usually, adhesive means are utilized for this assembly of parts.

In order to show the versatility of the invention and its applicability to footwear in which the upper is not necessarily of one continuous extent. I have chosen to show in Figs. l1 -1'i how a shoe such as that shown in Fig. 10 maybe pro- 4 of the shoe, the stitches 43 secure the platform cover 44 to the lower edge of the vamp 33. In the shank region, the stitches 4'3 secure the strip 44 directly to the sock lining 4| (Fig. 16-). In the heel region of the shoe (Fig. 17) a pocket 43 is provided between the element 43 and the quarter 46. This pocket is adapted to receive a pre formed flanged heel counter such as that shown in Fig. 8.

The completion of the shoe is accomplished as hereinbefore described. After the heel counter is inserted into the pocket 49, the assembly is applied to a last. Any suitable or desired platform pad is then applied, the platform cover 44 is pulled up over it and glued down, and ultimately the outer sole is applied.

duced. In this shoe, the upper consists of a vamp 39 and an entirely separate and spaced quarter 40. This leaves a gap in the shank region of the shoe.

The first step in utilizing the present invention toward making the shoe of Fig. 10 is shown in Fig. 11, and consists in stitching the full length sock lining 4| to the upper elements 39 and 43, throughout the full extent of the lower edges, respectively, 'of these parts. This is accomplished by a row of stitching 42 (Fig. 14) 7 As a separate preliminary step,a counter-covering element 43 is secured along its lower edge to a platform cover 44, by means of stitches 45. These stitches terminate short of the side edges of the element 43.

I have chosen to show the element 43 of the same size and shape as the quarter 40. Accordingly, when the element 43 is applied to the quarter 46, it overlies the latter in its entirety. The procedure is, however, the same as that hereinbefore described. The element 43 is secured to the quarter 40 by means of stitches 46 which extend only along the side and top edges of the element 43. This brings the parts into the relationships shown in Fig. 12. Then the unattached parts of the strip 44 are stitched down, as in dicated in Fig. 13. Assuming the strip 44 is of adequate length to extend entirely around the shoe, the opposite ends will overlap as at 41.

preferably in the shank region of the shoe. The securement is achieved by stitches 43 which correspond to the stitches 33 hereinbefore descri In neither of the embodiments illustrated have I shown anopening of the toe region of the upper, but it will be understood that the procedure is not materially altered if such an opening is provided. Wherever there is such 'an opening, the platform cover is stitched directly to the sock lining as indicated in Fig. 16.

It will also be noted that I have shown the platform of uniform height in each of the shoes illustrated. This is not essential, as will be understood by those skilled in the art. The platform may be of any thickness, uniform or varying, and the platform coveringstrip will be made of corresponding width.

Also, while I have shown the platform cover of adequate length to extend entirely around the shoe, it will be understood that it may be formed of two or more pieces, if desired. The rear piece will in any case be preliminarily stitched to the counter-covering element in the manner hereinbefore described, and will be longer than said element so that a portion will extend forwardly. The forward part-of the wrapper strip may, if desired, be secured to the forward part of the assembly of Fig. 2, or to the forward part of the assembly of Fig. 11, prior to the application of the counter-covering assembly to the rear part of the shoe. This would then create an overlap at both sides of the shoe, 'rather than only at one side as indicated at 32 in Fig. 5 and at 41 in Fig. 13.

It will also be understood that the platform pad in the heel region of the shoe may be replaced by the heel itself or by an element correspondin to a heel. In that case, the part 21 of Fig. 7 may bedesignated a heel cover in the heel region of the shoe, but the procedure is essentially the same as that herein described. Moreover, it is not absolutely essential in all cases that a platform pad be used at all. The strip 21 (Fig; 3) and the strip 44 (Fig. 12) may in each case serve merely as an extension of lining during the completion of the shoe on the last. This brings the strip into a secure position beneath the outer sole which is applied over it.

The advantages of the invention will be apparent. Most of the assembling steps are performed off the last and consist in simple stitching operations which require no special skill. The finished shoe is unusually attractive in appearance, it has the great advantage that the sock lining is stitched down through its entire periphery, and that the shoe in the heel region is neatly and emciently reinforced by a preformed stiff counter, preferably but not necessarily a flanged counter.

in connection with Fig. 5. In the forward part In general, it will be understood that those skilled in the art may readily make changes in many of the details herein described and illustrated, without necessarily departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claim as new and. desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In the herein-described method of making a slip-lasted shoe, the steps which consist in stitching a full-length sock lining to an upper throughout the full extent of the uppers lower edge, separately stitching a platform cover to the lower edge of a rear counter-covering element, stitching said element to said upper in the heel region of the shoe but only along the side and top edges of the element, inserting a pre-formed flanged counter'into the space beneath said element, then applying the assembly to a last and while it is on said last applying a platform and covering its edge with said platform cover.

2. In the herein-described method of makingflanged counter into the space beneath said element, then applying the assembly to a last and while it is on said last applying a platform and covering its edge with said platform cover.

3. In the herein-described method of making a slip-lasted shoe, the steps which consist in stitching a full-length sock lining to an upper throughout the full extent of the upper's lower edge, separately stitching a platform cover to the lower edge of a rear counter-covering element, said platform cover being longer than said element so that its opposite ends extend beyond said element, stitching said element to said upper in the heel region of the shoe but only along the side and top edges of the element, then stitching said platform cover extensions to the upper forwardly of the heel region, inserting a pre-formed flanged counter into the space beneath said element. then applying the assembly to a last and while it is on said last applying a platform and covering its edge with said platform cover.

4. In the herein-described method of making a slip-lasted shoe, the steps which consist in stitching a full-length sock lining to an upper throughout the full extent of the uppers lower edge, separately stitching a platform cover to the lower edge of a rear counter-covering element, said platform cover being longer than said element so that its opposite ends extend beyond said element, said platform cover being in fact of sufficient length to extend all around the shoe, stitching said element to said upper in the heel region of the shoe but only along the side and top edges of the element, then stitching said platform cover extensions to the upper around the periphery of the shoe forwardly of the heel region, inserting a pre-i'ormed flanged counter into the space beneath said element, then applying the assembly to a last and while it is on said last applying a platform and covering its edge with said platform cover.

5. In the herein-described method of making a slip-lasted shoe, the steps which consist in stitching a full-length sock lining to an upper throughout the full extent of the uppers lower edge, separately stitching a platform cover to the lower edge of a rear counter-covering element, said stitching leaving the platform cover detached from said element at the side edges of the element, said platform cover being longer than said element so that its opposite ends extend beyond said element, stitching said element to said upper in the heel region of the shoe but only along the side and top edges of the element, then stitching down to the element the parts of the platform cover which were left detached and stitching said platform cover extensions to the upper forwardly of the heel region, inserting a pro-formed flanged counter into the space beneath said element, then applying the assembly to a last and while it is on said last applying a platform and covering its edge with said platform cover.

-6. In the herein-described method of making a slip-lasted shoe, the steps which consist in stitching a full-length sock lining to an upper throughout the extent of the uppers lower edge, separately stitching a strip to the lower edge of a rear counter-covering element, said strip being longer than said element so that its opposite ends extend beyond said element, stitching said element to said upper in the heel region of the shoe but only along the side and top edges of the element, then stitching said strip extensions to the upper forwardly of the heel region, inserting a counter into the space beneath said element, then applying the assembly to a last and completing the shoe by application of an outer sole and by securing said strip beneath said sole.

'7. In the herein-described method of making a slip-lasted shoe, the steps which consist in providing an upper which includes a vamp and a separate quarter, stitching the lower edges of said vamp and quarter to the corresponding edge portions of a full-length sock lining, providing a rear counter-covering element of substantially the same size and shape as said quarter, stitching a strip to the lower edge of said element, said strip being longer than said element so that its opposite ends extend beyond said element, stitching said element to said quarter along only the side and top edges of said element, stitching the lower edge of said vamp to corresponding parts of said strip extensions, stitching said sock lining to corresponding parts of said strip extensions in the region between said vamp and quarter, inserting a counter into the space beneath said element, then applying the assembly to a last and completing the shoe by application of an outer sole and by securing said strip beneath said sole.

JACK MELTZER.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,339,993 Hollander Jan. 25, 1944 2,404,587 Maling July 23, 1946 2,446,286 Kamborian Aug. 3, 1948 

